A week of mountaineering in the Oisans with Alain: Cavales, Meije Orientale, Doigt de Dieu and Pointe Louise, with unfinished business and naps in huts.
North Peak of Les Cavales
5 a.m. The alarm clock violently rips me away from the comfort of my comforter and my nighttime daydreams. Just enough time to grab my bag and a few odds and ends, and here I am in the car, heading toward the Pas d’Anna Falque to meet up with Alain at the Pavé refuge. On the way, by chance, I run into our Yogapero instructor again—the same one I’d met a few days earlier at La Selle! The beauty of the Valfourche basin and the energizing power of the Romanche River almost make me forget how heavy my legs feel today, after too many days without rest! It’s for a good cause—by moving our schedule up by a day, we’re maximizing our chances of being able to cross the Meije Orientale. The risk of thunderstorms seems to be growing more pronounced with each passing day.
Alain and I have lost count of the days we’ve spent together over the past 8 years! This time, we’re revisiting an old adventure! Two years ago, along with his son Tristan, we were struggling along the ridge of the Meije Orientale, held back by some rather daunting cornices. And the day before, we’d been climbing the Pic Nord des Cavales in conditions that were hostile to say the least—black ice, freezing temperatures, and zero visibility.
None of that this time. We’re quietly enjoying the standard route up Pic des Cavales, in unseasonably warm weather! The thunderstorms don’t seem to be in any hurry to put on a show, so we’re savoring this beautiful climb with its views while chatting. A quick nap at the summit will wrap things up. The afternoon is devoted to low-key activities at the Pavé refuge. Sophie, who single-handedly keeps this rather run-down cabin running, gives us a warm welcome. The day ends with a spectacular sound-and-light show, just like every day at this time of year.
Crossing the Eastern Meije from the Pavé Shelter
Back to the site of the goal. We left the shelter at 4:30 a.m. The bread and jams were so good that we could have stayed another half hour to fill our bellies! We reached the Col du Pavé in two hours, pleasantly surprised by the snow conditions. We crossed the bergschrund and then traversed the first ledge—no black ice this time! We caught up with a rope team that had set out from the Promontoire. Up to the breach, we didn’t need crampons this time; a few snowfields were easy to cross, but otherwise we were mostly on scree. Three hours after setting out, we found ourselves basking in the sun for a nice break. Things were looking much better than last time, it seemed!
The rest of the climb flows beautifully, alternating between narrow sections, chamois-covered terrain, and some real long climbing pitches! The altitude is taking its toll on Alain, but he’s a tough guy, and at 9:30 a.m., after one last beautiful pitch along the ridge line, we’re at the summit of the Meije Orientale, face to face with the Doigt de Dieu. The excitement is palpable. The Meije never fails to make an impression! The perfect conditions invite us to linger up there for a good hour! Just a little more focus on the descent, where ice is already starting to appear, and we arrive at the Refuge de l’Aigle for another afternoon dedicated to peace and quiet!
"Finger of God" via the Normal Route
To wrap up our first three days, before heading down, we take advantage of our high vantage point to climb the Doigt de Dieu. The usual evening thunderstorms—a bit colder than on previous days—have left about 15 cm of snow. The scene is beautifully pristine… the sun catches us at the bergschrund… we’re burning up our calves in the first light of day! The rock section below the summit, covered in places by a layer of ice, requires a bit of cleaning… And there we are, overlooking the Étançons from the Doigt de Dieu. Everything is perfect! All that’s left is a long descent, made quite pleasant today by the snow that extends down to about 2,400 meters.... it’s still a blast when it’s slippery!
South Ridge of Pointe Louise
To wrap up our five days with Alain, we head back to the Glacier Blanc area to climb Pointe Louise, a peak that holds special significance for Alain. That works out well—I’ve never climbed the classic south ridge, even though I’ve surely passed by its base a good hundred times!! We set off at about the same time as the sun… unlike the south ridge of the Glacier Blanc, where you can zigzag across the slopes, this one is truly climbed right on the edge! The rock is exhilarating, the climbing never too difficult with a few sections rated IV–IV+, and the view of the Barre is spectacular! Two hours after setting out, we’re at the summit of Pointe Louise, a peak far less crowded than some of the area’s star attractions. The descent isn’t exactly a walk in the park—the steep snow slopes still require a bit of caution… then we let ourselves descend to the Glacier Blanc refuge for a well-deserved feast. And so ends our 8th episode—and certainly not the worst one. A dream week, far from the crowds. Thanks once again, Alain, for these great moments in your company! Next time with the boys!
Practical Info / Route Topo
J1 — Pic Nord des Cavales
- Walk up from the Pas d’Anna Falque to meet Alain at the Pavé hut, then climb the Pic Nord des Cavales via the normal route. Rock climbing, a summit break and a return to the Pavé hut for the night.
J2 — Meije Orientale traverse
- Leave the Pavé hut at 4.30 am and reach the Col du Pavé in two hours. Traverse the Meije Orientale over rocky sections and narrow ridges. Reach the summit at around 9.30 am, then descend to the Aigle hut for the night.
J3 — Doigt de Dieu
- Climb the Doigt de Dieu via the normal route from the Aigle hut after around 15 cm of fresh snow. Snow slopes and a partly iced rock pitch below the summit, followed by a long descent towards the valley, with snow down to around 2400 metres.
J4 — Ecrins hut
- Ascent to Ecrins hut
J5 — South ridge of the Pointe Louise
- Climb the Pointe Louise via its south ridge, on good rock with sections of grade IV–IV+. Reach the summit around two hours after setting off, then descend steep snow slopes and return to the Glacier Blanc hut.
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